Top Station Trek - A Weekend in Western Ghats of Tamilnadu.

It was just about three weeks since our last trek however it felt as if couple of months had passed away. Highlands certainly not fall shy of detaching you from your materialistic and monotonous urban life and making you realize the fascinating and delicate beauty of the Mother Nature. Hence we decided to go for a relatively moderate trek to Top station in Munnar, Kerala from Kurangani Hills in Tamilnadu organized by a promising start up called ‘Travel My Routes’ owned by Harsha. Initially the plan was to go Kukkal Caves trek in Palani hills, but due to some local constraints we opted out from the plan just two days before. I believe it was almost 3 months before I and Vasu thought of doing Kukkal trek but was getting postponed due to various reasons since that time, hope next time the plan end up without fail.

Team @Camping Point, Kollukkumalai in the background.

We started off from the Electronic city Bangalore in a tempo traveler hired by the group. It was the weekend and I was happy to see a crowd, 11 in total including our organizer Harsha M Aithal. The team consists of Vasu, Sudhee, Deekshith, Adithya, Dinesh, Shanti, Swamy, Ranjan, Sridhar, Organizer Harsha and Myself. We got quite a bit delayed to reach Kurangani village; from where one need start to trek to Top Station and Kolukkumalai tea Estate after having refreshing breakfast at Theni town.

Just started the trail.

Kurangani
I would like to take privilege about describing the beautiful hills known as "Kurangani”. Kurangani is a small Village/hamlet in Bodinayakanur Taluk in Theni District. It comes under Kottagudi Panchayath. It is located 16 KM towards west from District headquarters Theni, 542 KM from State capital Chennai. Kurangani is surrounded by Theni Taluk towards East, Chinnamanur Taluk towards South, Uthamapalayam Taluk towards South, Periyakulam Taluk towards East.  Theni Allinagaram, Uthamapalayam, Periyakulam, Usilampatti are the nearby Cities to Kurangani. Kerala prominent tourist towns Munnar, Thekkady, Suryanelli, Bodimettu, Kumily and Devikulam accessible from Kurangani.

Ranjan's Photography.

Water Falls just after mud road.

You will be charmed to have a look at the incredible highland scenery. The region is a heaven for wildlife, especially avifauna and pollinators endemic to the Western Ghats. Retentions will be impressed forever like the grand misty peaks that surround us near the Top Station. Nature lovers within the state also frequently visit Kurangani Hills. Films Alagar Samiyin Kuthurai, Myna, Varuthapadatha Valibar Sangam and Kumki were shot on the Hills. The best months to explore the Hills during Monsoon and winter. Kurangani is a very placid and serene settlement covered by mountains, lovely trees and water streams filled with the harmony of signing birds.

Chameleon seen on the way @Ranjan

Kurangani hills from the Muthuvakkudi!

Top Station.

Top Station offers a panoramic view of the majestic Western Ghats and the valley of Kolukkumalai and Kurangani in Theni district. Top station point is the last tourist spot of Munnar towards Tamilnadu border. At top station you will be able to see a beautiful view of Kurangani Hills and world highest organic tea estate (Kolukkumalai). It’s a splendid view of nature you get, something we feel the best of cameras can't capture the beauty that lies for man to see. Green mountains, and valleys and clouds, just beautiful point to stop by and see the beautiful scene.  It is part of Theni District in the state of Tamil Nadu. At 1911m ASL, top station is covered by the characteristic shola-grassland forests. These scenic grasslands provide important services to mankind, by serving as a water-catchment area for Bodi and Theni in Tamilnadu and as a carbon sink for our greenhouse gas emissions.

A beauty from Ranjan's cam!!

Three identical peak fro top station view point towards Munnar.

Top station was a historic shipment point for the transportation of tea leaves via a rope way carriage constructed in 1924. This rope way spread over 3 stations: Top Station; Central Station and Bottom Station (Kurangani); from where on tea chests were transported to Bodi, to the nearest railway station. Top Station derived its name from its being the upper terminus of the Kottagudi Aerial Ropeway built in 1902. Tea chests arriving at Top Station from the Kundalai Valley were transported by a ropeway from Top Station 5 km downhill to the south to Kottagudi, Tamil Nadu. The tea was then shipped 15 km by cart to Bodinayakkanur, then by rail to other places in India and ship to England. Remains of the ropeway station at Top Station are still visible. Elevation at top of Bodi ropeway was 1,911 meters (6,270 ft.).

Notable facts and History about Top Station.

• ·    Thrilling panorama of hills and meadows extending up to ‘Kambam Valley’.
• ·    Short cut trekking path leads to Madurai, Kodaikanal and Thekkady.
• ·    Kolukkumalai – World highest organic tea estate at 8500 ft. above sea level can be availed from the view point.
• ·    The Age-Old railway mono-gauge, hydel electricity generation and 18^th century rope way can be seen.
• ·    Feel ‘n’ Sensitize an ecologically virgin climate.

@Top Station

Trekking Paths

Trekking trails are available from Kurangani to Top Station (11 Kms) via Central Station and Muthuvakkudi. Trekkers can find an opportunity to discover Mother Nature’s enchanting beauty.  Soaring mountain peaks enroute Top Station is an essence of the Forces of Nature. Kurangani region is a sea of ridges and mountain peaks separated by valleys filled with virgin forests of silver oak and eucalyptus and various plantations like tea, coffee and cardamom.  There is a mountain rivulet that passes between Kurangani Mountains in the east and Kolukkumalai in the west. Kurangani Hills has multiple trekking trails to the famous destination such as Kolukkumalai, Meesapulimala, and Top Station and Rhodo Valley.

Meadows seen from view point.

Kolukkumalai tea estate ranges.

Harsha and Dinesh managed with arranging local guides and care takers during the trail, there we met Manoj and Vetri (School going students). By 10:30 all together started trekking from Kurangani with packed lunch brought from Theni, tents, grocery for dinner and next day’s breakfast with backpacks. The trail started through the coffee plantation to the mud jeep road. Two ways to reach top station

Adithya and his Dad😐

•      Following the mud road until Muthuvakkudi village before central station.
•      To take short route through the forest covers and ridges till central station. (Dinesh told me as he knows).

The big two 😎

The forest department camp can be found on the road and the temporary permit can be obtained at a fee. Our plan was to take the mud road and reach Muthuvakkudi village. The trails started with ascend which exhausted the sumptuous breakfast. We could see was the unending layers of hills, a beautiful waterfalls surrounded by thick vegetation and the mesmerizing sky just after half an hour walk. In 2 hours we reached the village and had our first break there. Trek trail path is wide mud road almost all over till Muthuvakkudi (Deekshith didn’t feel it was a trek until this point as he told me :D).

Three Musketeers 😏

By 2 pm we had packed lunch, after a short halt near a big banyan tree at Muthuvakkudi village we started again. As soon as we cross this village there were steep ascends, everyone was getting tired in no time under hot sun. I realized that till the end of the trek would be like this and was prepared internally. The heavy grocery hand bag and light weight backpack matter of concern for me. After a point I could see the top of the peak, gained some momentum and moved ahead of few and reached central station.

Sudheeeeee 😂

Dinesh and Shanti (They both aware of this trail, visited earlier) intended to reach straight to camping point by avoiding the central village. But things went other way, while they both were taking the rest under a tree we all moved well ahead of them and were on the way to Central village. We didn’t get a chance to pay attention to them when they try to shout to stop us.

Throgh the grass lands!!

After walking for good 2 hours, we reached to ‘Central Village’ which comes right mid-way on the trek. We found a small shop serving lemon water. Each one of us drank full to our thirst and relaxed before embarking on second half of our journey. Despite it’s being slightly hot, we ascended through the hills on our way up. Crossing plains and forests and walking for another 6 KMs, we reached to Top station Munnar. You can even find many local people taking this path to reach Kurangani from Top station and vice versa. It was crowded like most of other tourist places.

We had our local delicacies of Tea and snacks at Top Station, and waited for Dinesh and Shanti to join us. After a long wait they came and joined us. By the time they met us it was dark all around. Our campsite was right in middle in the forest with beautiful views. With the plan of trekking down to Campsite with the help of Dinesh and Shanti which is 1km down to the top station view point. Later we all realized that descending down is not a good idea at that time as it is going to be dark and thought availability of water sources to cook and pitch the tent. Almost everyone exhausted after 11 kms ascending, decided to stay back at top station. Instead preparing our dinner we opted to fill our tummies near by a hotel.

Crazy drive!!

Whole gang attention to a pic.

Rest time!!

We pitched campsite near the view point in the dark night using our torch and tents. In no time everyone went to deep sleep. The night temperature dipped as low as 10 to 15 c degrees, I believe it’s not up to the Munnar standards (May be because of peak summer), making us feel the pain of little cold. We got up early in the morning started the trail below to the Top Station (Same path leads to Camp site which we missed yesterday) hosts a beautiful waterfall, which brings in chill waters from the valley above. 

View Point given us shelter.

At some points we had to kneel down not to get sweeped off our feet. The waters were freezing cold and the standing under the waterfall is nothing but a ‘glittering feel’. Vasu and I followed (climbed) the stream to the top of this waterfall, there rests another beautiful waterfall that drops from a greater height, with much more good looks and completed the morning rituals near downstream.

Top station waterfalls.

Meanwhile Vasu, Shanti and Dinesh prepared Upma and sweet poha for breakfast near old house close to the waterfall, Upma and Poha seemed like delight, was so delicious and yummy, all of us enjoyed it including guides Manoj and Vetri. I would like to say many thanks to Shanti Prasad for arranging lemon grass Kolukkumalai special tea at jungle, it was really pleasing.

Lemon grass boiled water!!

After breakfast, we left from there and trekked back towards Kurangani on our way back. From there, we followed the altogether different trail for initial 3 km till taking regular trek path just before Muthuvakkudi village. This turned out to be another gem as we walked through open grasslands and 360 degrees gorgeous views of the peaks around us.

The hills are regarded as intermittent fluctuating climate, low-hanging clouds, frigid atmosphere and strong winds. As expected we experienced heavy rain showers when we were about to reach Muthuvakkudi then rain has stopped for some time. So everyone started cooking near the Banyan tree but nature had other thoughts it again started pouring cats and dogs. After a long wait it stopped, again Vasu and Shanti managed to cook hot Bisbile Bath. 

In wet weather Bisbilebath made us sumptuous and bid good bye to Village and weather conditions promising that we will meet again somewhere. Vegetation, water streams and lemon grassland can make you to stay there for a long time. This place has nothing much but worth visiting to see the beauty one can only find in Himalayan range.

Descending Down!!

Harsha Enjoying the moment!!

Crazy pose from Sahathi!!

We did not take much breaks on the way to Kurangani and were completely drained. After trekking for almost 1+ hours, we reached to Kurangani village. By that time we reach there it was 7’o clock in the evening, took leave from Guides and beautiful Kurangani. 

VASU 💓

It was raining.

I enjoyed my Top Station Munnar trek, delighted the trail and company of tremendous passionate fellow trekkers, Thanks to each and every one Sudhee, Dinesh, Ranjan, Adithya, Vasu, Deekshith, Swamy, Sridhar sir.

Special mention to the Harsha for making possible such a wonderful expedition.


Image Courtesy : Ranjan Sethi, Travel My Routes and Deekshith 

Nagalapuram West Biking + Trekking

I feel going to a trek will actually get strength to give yourself that much required break and mostly tolerance. Walking in quietness on that highland you will feel like you are able to map your life easily.

Team @Araniyar Dam

Before starting the story let me describe Nagala in detail, popularly known as swimmers glory situated right in the foothills of Eastern Ghats just 80 kms away from prominent temple town ‘Tirupathi’. Nagala blessed with some of the best water sources and the canopy of the greenery all through the year. Well-known for its natural good looks along with the remarkably stunning and crystal clear water fonts. 

Shiva's Photography just before sunrise @Puttur

Unlike other trails trekking Nagala (Western and Eastern) falls run parallel to streams and intermittently walking on the stream rocks itself make a trail and you could see number of water pools alongside. Most of the trekkers and holidaymakers use the Nagala western and eastern entries while few dare to take other trails to venture into this pristine water pool paradise. Nagala offers a boundless opportunity to do TREKNIC.

View of Reservoir with eastern ghats background. 

Nagalapuram hills are spread across 25113 acres (101 Sq. Kms approx.) of land. Nagalapuram is a small historical town located in the Chittoor District of Andhra Pradesh. Nagalapuram is famous for two things, one is Sri Vedanarayana Swamy Temple and the other one is Nagalapuram falls trekking (also known as Kona Falls or A.k.A Saddhi Koodu Madugu). Sri Vedanarayana temple is majestic stupa dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is said to have been built by Krishna Devaraya of Vijayanagar Kingdom in memorial of his mother Nagala Devi, after whom the town is termed.

Rashmi enjoying backwaters !!

Nagala trek starts from a village called Arai at a distance of 16 km from Nagalapuram town, 44 km from Puttur, 87 km from Chennai, 78 km from Tirupathi, 107 km from Chittoor, 130 km from Vellore, 120 km from Kanipakam & 288 km from Bangalore. Public bus service is available till Arai (Pichatur - SriKalahasti road).Nagalapuram since the past few years has turn out to be a favorite trek destination for trekking buffs because of its vicinity, clean water pools and pleasant surroundings. Nagala is one of the popular spots for hiking close to Chennai and also among best weekend breakouts.

Just before the forest trail !!

This time we were seven people Shiva, Shivu, Vasu, Rashmi and Brothers (Harsha and Bharath Bharadwaj) planned a trek on the weekend of March 18th and 19th. Raced off our journey at 12’o clock in one car and one motor bike on the verge of fully raged autumn. I just want to mention a horrible encounter happened during the journey, stopped for a cup of tea near Mulbagal toll gate at 2:30 AM. A transgender came towards us demanded for money, without saying one word I merely offered her some money. After few minutes she came back and literally started mistreating all of us though she expected more money, no one has courage to face her due their misbehaving acts or abuses to travelers as they established such kind of monopoly.

Had almost no sleep throughout the journey, after a hard long bike(Shiva n Me) ride we had reach a town called Puttur on our way to Nagala with couple of breaks in between and soon finished our breakfast with yummy idlies at small hotel.

Brothers walking together !!

With Bhararh :) 

To start the trail one has to to reach the Arai village, take right direction towards Kona falls (Sadhi Madugu falls) or look for the route which leads to Nagala Lake, a man made reservoir across the Nagala stream. We reached at lake (Arai Village) early in the morning (10 AM) & got a parking spot near the lake. Our initial plan was to camp during the night at one of the pool. Later we got to know that a techie from Chennai drowned (It’s a long story) while trekking in the Nagalapuram three days back. They have flushed out the body after long search with the help of Arai village folks a day before. Hence we told by authorized guides of Nagala that we can’t camp overnight anywhere in forest, lake and close to the village as per local police department orders they received. So we have decided to come back to village before sunset.

Rest time under a huge mango tree 😐😐

By the time we started trekking it was about 11’o clock, within a 10 min walk we came to the Nagala reservoir backwaters and Eastern Ghats right behind the backwaters. Ideal and safe time to start if you plan to ascend on the same day would be on or before 10 AM, not later. If you plan to stay back (such as usually done) – feel comfortable to start any time till before 4’o clock. Ascend and descend is post 6 pm is unsafe which may leads to missing the right path.

Stream we cross on the way.

From reservoir backwaters we entered flowering shrub filled plantation with several trails going all possible ways. I guess all these trails leads to our destination, anyhow with the help of our guide Shivu Murthy we finally enter the dense forest in right time in scorching heat. As soon as we enter into thick jungle took a break under a big tree and had watermelon carrying with us. After few mins walk we come across a lovely stream filled with crystal clear water, you know water was as unsoiled as you get in wilderness.

Crystal clear pools prior to first pool. 

First Pool (Slide Pool)

We made it to the first pool (Slide Pool) in the span of one hour with hardly one break. The trail was not so difficult in patches though if you follow the streams there are few chances to you may get lost. The first pool place is very scenic but you will hardly get a space to enjoy the scenery because loose and slippery stones. One has to keep an eye on your step and walk carefully. The pool is about 6+ feet deep and a perfect spot to soak yourself without panic of drowning but one should be cautious. 

@Slide Pool A.K.A 1st pool.

The crystal clear water and outright peace will take your breath away. The loveliness of this stream is one can enjoy natural fish spa(Fish entertains a bit if you give some time) throughout the trail starting from stream we cross after the forest cover till you reach the third and last pool. The whole group had an amazing time by jumping into the water - non-swimmers with their floats and having appetizing lunch with Chapathi and spicy chutney at the slide pool.

Second Pool (Picnic Pool)

Picnic Pool

After a short while we decided to move on to the second pool, further up the hill. The first and second pools were a pleasure for both swimmers and non-swimmers, distance between these two are around 0.5 km. Slightly deeper (Depth of the pool varies from 1 feet to 10 feet) than the first pool with a small water fall at the end, and it was even better than first pool. After clicking a few snaps here we have decided to move advance as there are many folks sat on the cliffs clicking snaps of the divers plunging into the water and filling their lost energy by having lunch.

Shiva and Harsha getting entertain with fish spa.

Cute stream rapids at the third Pool.

Third Pool (Magic and Sliding Pool)

Magic pool this was the best among all.

Selfie while descending down @Picnic Pool

The stretch between second and third pool rather steep, I must say that I was out of control by the time we reach it. The pristine water, the leaf covered hill side, the overgrown rocks, the vibrant leaves floating in the pool, the greenery around, all added to one of the most picturesque sights I have seen. The water here is the deeper than the previous two pools and that was quite obvious since it was much darker in color than pool one and two. 

In between second and third pool.

Shiva, Vasu and myself decided to dive into the water from surrounding rocks high above the pool. Others (Harsha, Bharath, Shivu and Rashmi) sat on the cliffs clicking snaps of us when plunging into the water. Vasu and others said it is no less than 20-30ft deep. Please be careful and don’t attempt to get into this on the off chance that you know swimming or concerned of deep water. Beyond this pools the ascent gets difficult, until and unless you are a professional trekker or someone experienced with you. Kindly refrain from going above at this point.

@Vasu

We covered entire trail in approximately 5 to 6 hours which incorporated the incredible time spent in the first and third pool. Once we reach back to the pool two, we got into the water once again, took more pictures and began trekking back to the downhill.

The trek back downhill was thoroughly pleasurable but also little draining since we were all worn out from the swimming and no sleep in the last night. We descended and reached the Arai village in less than two hours. With villager’s permission Vasu, Shivu Harsha and Shiva somehow managed to prepare soup and dinner for us in guide’s house. After whole day ascending and descending dinner Avalakki seemed like bliss, was so delicious and pleasing, all of us relished it.

Sunset View from dam @Shiva's Photography.

We pitched campsite near the temple at Pichatur in the dark night with our torch and sleeping bags. In no time everyone went to deep sleep (I am the one who started first, in the morning I told by Harsha). We got up early in the morning and started towards Puttur. 

Land Lord 👐

Hungry birds arranging for tea and Breakfast

Eventually as breakfast time approached we stopped near a farming land, took permission from land lord to use for our needs. Shivu, Harsha collected the firewood and on a small fire Rashmi,Vasu and Shiva prepared tea and tasty Upma to feed all the ‘Hungry’ birds. After our ‘firewood’ Upma we have decided to go Araniyar dam site since we had lot of time in the day. Spent some odd time on the retaining walls of reservoir took some pictures and packed our stuff and started towards Bangalore.

One of the lonely boy in the trip.

Tea Time

On our way back to Bangalore there was sizzling sun, a hot day, we were badly looked for a water source to dip in. Vasu and Shiva both were riding on a bike and they found lush green paddy fields where there is pump which helped us to refresh ourselves.

10 mins later it became....

Overall a fulfilled trip, It would take another weekend to venture other side of Nagala (Called Eastern entry) and there will be one more trip to this pristine water pools.

@ Araniyar Dam

Pointers

• Guide -    Mannar and His family (local contact in Arai who will arrange for guide, food) – 9849440712.Once you reach Arai Village, you can ask in the village for some person to accompany you as a guide. Of course they will ask for some money, be ready to negotiate.

• ·   Distance Covered – 13 kms Approx(Ascend and descend from parking spot)
• ·   Water Source – First 2 kms there is no drinking water source until you cross the stream on the way (1 lts water would be sufficient till here).
• ·   Essential Time needed – 1 Day(If u are a regular trekker could complete the trail by end of the day by starting the trek early in the morning)
• ·   Camping Options - Either at second or third pool or near reservoir backwaters.