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Thursday 8 June 2017

Brahmagiri Trek – An eccentric trudge with newbies.

Stunning doesn’t begin to describe the vast sub-continent, home to the one of the world’s largest rain-forest, the impressive Western Ghats (Called as Sahyadris in some parts), with ever green, semi ever green forests and some truly breathtaking landscapes. If you are a truly nature lover, I would say there is no place better than Western Ghats for the adventures of a lifetime. Always known for the greenery and the landscapes, Western Ghats is a land where one can find popular waterfalls as well as mountainous treks.
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Towards endless beauty!!

Being born and brought up in drought prone area Anantapur of Rayalaseema, rain was always been heaven for me and became part of my life. I never forgot those moments when dense dark clouds forming and casing the entire blue sky followed by heavy downpour. Now a days if I hear the sound of rain and when I see clouds coming towards me I run not to escape from rain, but for rain not to escape from me. I believe over the years I have developed this mindset. I am not sure whether I could explain better but I am sure my passion connected to Mother Nature. Though it may sound poetic but that is factual. Sadly it doesn’t rain much at my hometown and it is opposite over Western Ghats. Monsoon is the season I love in Western Ghats and I always try to make as many trips as possible to this rain-forest during wet season. I can’t forgot those instants relishing rain walking in the lap of Western Ghats.

Monsoon
Green Beds till the far you can see.

Many times I have been to Madikeri, I even travel around the Coorg. But heard about Brahmagiri peak when Ajay did trail here last year in winter. Brahmagiri looked pretty exciting and was longing to go to this place ever since, so decided to trek the mount Brahmagiri as I confirmed that it’s rainy weather on the forecast with my colleagues Ajay, Nagesh, Pramod, Hemanth, Thilak, Guru, Yuvraj, Prakash, Manish and last but not least my cousin Deekshith . Fortunately it was raining with on and off showers throughout the trail.
Monsoon
Dark clouds all over.

The Brahmagiri Wildlife Nature preserve is located in Kodagu region of Karnataka state in the Western Ghats. Brahmagiri national park originates its name from the highest point, the Brahmagiri top, which is at 1607m. The region predominantly of dense forests, high grasslands, colorful birds and a more chances to see wildlife makes this a wonderful trek inside the Brahmagiri National Park. Ajay suggested that we go for a trek, a monsoon trek to Brahmagiri organized by a freelancer Raj Well-known travel guide who works closely with KMA and YHAI. So we confirmed our interest with Raj and we went to get a sore foot while being drenched in the cold winds and drizzle of the south west monsoons.
Western Ghats
πŸ‘†πŸ‘†

Our guide Raj managed to get permission to camp in the Narimale forest inspection bungalow (IB) from the forest department, Srimangala range. Late in the evening we started off from our office Koramangala, in a tempo traveler hired by the Raj.
Wildlife
First pic I have captured! Tree House πŸ’– 

We reached Nagarahole National Park entrance by 4’o clock from where actually the forest expanse start off. Nagarahole one of the most popular wildlife destinations of India, Named after the lively River Nagarahole in Karnataka, Nagarahole National Park is an enchanting getaway for the nature worshippers. Popularly known as Rajiv Gandhi National Park, this reserve forest is located in two famous districts of Karnataka, namely, Kodagu and Mysore. A significant part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, this national park constitutes one of the largest protected areas in South India along with Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, Bandipur, and Mudumalai National Parks (2183sq km altogether).
Wildlife
Indian Gaur (Bison) herd en route !!

There is a gate and policemen who won't allow you till it is 6 am in the morning and after 6 pm in the evening no vehicle will be allowed inside the core area. Everyone had a nice nap about two hours, few vehicles including ours paused near the gate till the clock indicated 6 am. It was turning out to be a lovely sunrise. Everything looked peaceful in dim light early in the morning. Soon after, the gate was open and we were instructed not to stop anywhere till we reach the main gate towards Kutta and forest guest houses.
Wildlife
Lonely Girl πŸ’•πŸ’•πŸ˜…
I and Pramod were setting up our DSLR and other were prepared to take snaps with their handset. A group of gaurs just sideways of the road surprised us. It was a stealing moment, the way the gaurs were posing, that sight was attractive.  On the way we could spot many deer of all sorts like Chital, Spotted deer etc. Adding to our excitement there was an elephant which we could see close to road. It was really a fantastic drive just the way we imagined it to be.
Wildlife

Wildlife

Wildlife
Deekshith's Special!!πŸ‘Œ

Took not more than an hour and we were at Iruppu falls, the route to the peak is through this famous waterfalls in south Kodagu. The place was perfect for us as it is surrounded with greenery in all sides. On freshening up Raj managed to arrange delicious breakfast for all of made by the local family, Pulav and Raitha. The group had more fresher’s than regulars so guide give us tips to do’s and what not to do before the start of the trek in the core region of Brahmagiri reserve as we are entering to the big mammals land and leeches paradise. He has given guidelines for next day’s schedule too and we were ready for the exciting task ahead.
Greenary
Just before starting !

Along with us two local boys Vinod, Manju and forest guard joined to assist us in the trail. Our entry into the forest began just 500 meters from Iruppu falls parking area. We were cautioned that the 24 km to and from trek is almost major elephant region, we were lucky to spot one ferocious tusker (Will discuss in detail about this later in the story).
Wildlife
@Iruppu Falls

Monsoon
Foot bridge en route to falls !!

We were greeted by the chirping of birds, leeches and there was also the sound of flowing Lakshmana theertha stream. We rested for brief periods and continued our journey by removing the leeches and reached a bridge constructed over Lakshmana Theertha River, spent some time here in stream waters. After traversing for nearly one and half hours we were out of the cozy canopy of the shola forest and into the open grassland. 
Wildlife
Cute pie near the stream taking rest on the rock 😎😎
@Malabar Pit Viper
Wildlife
Phallus Indusiatus(A mushroom variety) found in the Brahmagiri!

Everyone wearing thin, barely covering ankle running socks, not exactly a great decision when we are in leeches’ paradise. In a group of 11 people, as soon as boys started seeing and feeling the leeches Pramod, Yuvi and Hemanth were stained with blood and they had more than one slimy little bloodsuckers attached to them. That was the moment all the beginners Manish, Guru, Thilak and specifically Nagesh afraid off this little buggers.

River
Near Lakshmana Teertha Stream.

A few facts you might not know about leeches:
  • They attach themselves to you in two places, so each leech actually creates two "bites".
  • They're difficult to remove by hand, and
  • When you try and remove them by hand, you might pull it in half where the other half stays attached to your body.
Wildlife
'Blood'y three Idiots😈

Somehow they succeeded to clean from leeches but ankles continued to bleed and bleed and bleed and bleed. I didn’t care of about those, by now we could see a clear view of Brahmagiri range and could also cite the mist covered adjoining peaks during the trail. Though the trek was quite strenuous for most of the people in group, the 360 degree scenic beauty enveloping us was the best gift for all the hard work. 

Monsoon
Down the hills.

Monsoon

Western Ghats
Enjoying the moment!!

If the greenery far away peaks gave us an opportunity to feel nature in her pristine form the golden grass covered nearby peaks was a feast to the eyes. No camera can capture the exquisite beauty of nature in all her glory. It has to be captured only in the lens of our eyes though we did try to catch them in our cameras. We took short break and moved on to reach Narimale IB at around 11. 30 am, having trekked for two and half hours.
Western Ghats
@Team

Western Ghats
In a row !!πŸ‘
Narimale guest house was 6 kms from Iruppu falls entrance, the small semi-haunted theme bungalow has 4 solar lamps and a turbine is running by using a stream water which never dries out. There are some vessels and few chairs and whole guest house covered with asbestos sheets on top. It doesn’t have water supply, one has to go near by stream and carry the water every time needed.
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Wooden bridge near GH.

Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Entrance to the guest house.

Here we decided to freshen up and began to have our lunch. It was packed chapatti and delicious chutney powder with curd and vegetable salad. Almost every one feeling charged up after delicious lunch and decent rest for some time. By 2’o clock we were ready to start our journey towards the Brahmagiri peak, Raj given us some important guidelines not to make noise till reach the peak as this area is Tiger corridor, Bison resort, Elephants habitat, many other wild animals host and treasure trove of evergreen species of trees and grass lands.
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Lunch time !!

We have start as early as in order to reach the peak, since rain has lessened a bit. We were leaving back all our backpacks at the IB since we had planned to come back to the guest house. I was imagining that 6 km trail path from GH to peak to be absolutely grass lands, hence I wrongly anticipated won’t be bothered with leeches. The plains had become more or less wetlands with monsoon rains. With heavy rains yellowish grasslands had a makeover to lively green in matter of days, which gave us spectacular views. 
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
πŸ‘·πŸ‘·

During the walk few of us caught sight of 2 sambar deer grazing at a distance. From the time when the start at guest house we were able to see huge masses of Elephant, their huge steps in the marsh soil. 
Wildlife
Pug marks 😸😸

Guide Yathiraj showed us some pug marks of big cats, thought of tiger must have crossed this path a while back. We have taken hardly 1 + hour to complete the 5.5 km over grassland and left over 500 mts took another half an hour to climb. The path to the peak as steep as 70 to 75 degrees and you could see two muddy paths leading to the top with grass and some tress around.
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Mount Brahmagiri πŸ’“πŸ’“

It was vertical, slippery with small steppingstones. After inclining 20 mins of fought session we reached the peak of Brahmagiri. But our happiness didn’t last for long, reason being the thick climate surrounding the mountain with heavy wind and mist. This resulted us lack of the 360 degree scenic view of the Brahmagiri ranges. However that did not stop new bees from having the excitement of completing the trek, Thanks to the incessant rains, heavy breeze and relentless mist covered. The climb down from the peak was bit challenging, with almost sliding and tumbling down at least once, Pramod had uncertainly :D.
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Random click by Manish !!

We had an overwhelming experience while returning back to the GH, somewhere in the middle Yathiraj found that a ferocious male Elephant racing us. At far distance we were able to see Elephant coming to attack towards us. All of us got frightened and started running to guest house. Yathiraj shared his experience why male tuskers are unsafe in this wildlife sanctuary.
wildlife
Sambar deers at some distance.
Females tend to live in family groups, which can consist of one female with her calves or several related females with offspring. The groups are led by an individual known as the matriarch, often the oldest cow. Elephants have a fission–fusion society in which multiple family groups come together to socialize. Males leave their family groups when they reach puberty, and may live alone or with other males. Adult bulls mostly interact with family groups when looking for a mate and enter a state of increased testosterone and aggression known as musth, which helps them gain dominance and reproductive success. Males are usually solitary, but occasionally form groups of two or more individuals(This is why lonely tuskers try to attack people and behave crazily with frustration they had on their family).
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Selfie time.
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary

Soon after on our way back we saw again 2 Sambar deer grazing at a distance. Hence I didn’t take any precautions and this was probably the biggest blunder of the day. In the end I had a blood bath with getting 20-30 odd bites. Even in the grasslands the leeches were blooming because of the total nonexistence of sunlight.  We have to be very cautious about Bloodsuckers, they are all over the place! They penetrated our shoes, sucked our blood. Do not forget to carry salt, calcium carbonate, knife or anything to remove them when they get stuck.
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Inside.

Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Out Side.

Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Back Side!!
Finally we reached the guest house with emotions, we sat there, talked a little. But slowly the magic of the jungle at the night time began to have its hold on us. The fear was gone. We experienced something that we, little people from the city, never knew existed. The jungle is never silent. It has its own voices, its own music that you can only hear when you truly try. 
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary

Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Fauna of  Western Ghats.

We found a thick branched log of a tree lying in front of the guest house. We went to it and started breaking it and put fire camp Manju helped us to arrange it, waiting for the sun to set we realized that this was going to be a wonderful experience.
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
Tea time @camp fire.

Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
πŸ™

Good dinner was prepared by the Manju and Vinod, we all had nicely. All went to sleep in no time as we trekked almost 20 kms throughout and not had proper sleep last night during our journey. It was very clod and luckily there was no mosquitoes.

Western Ghats, Monsoon

The next morning we got up and completed morning chores. Then raj said he is taking us to Nature walk around, earlier we decide to go Pakshipatalam a natural caves in the morning. Then I got to know that Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary not given permission due to some dispute and therefore permission for Karnataka side to Munikal Caves (in Kerala) is never entertained. We came back from morning walk and had delicious breakfast prepared cooked on the firewood and started descending down to the base point near Iruppu falls. I found a green wine snake on our way back, Ajay and Deekshith had some fun playing with it. It took around two hours to reach the falls and took bath under the falls.
Monsoon,Forest Guest House
Bidding bye to Semi-haunted guest house.

Forest,Wildlife,Green Vine Snake
Crazy kids at the moment πŸ˜…πŸ˜…

I have heard this was the costliest trek in South India, one has to pay Narimale guest house rent whopping 5k for one night stay. But I understood the logic, more the cost, less would be the trekkers inflow and only serious explorers will be interested. Also we were the only team attempting to scale the peak on this weekend and since the monsoons hit. I believe we are the first team to successfully conquer Brahmagiri peak in Monsoon 2017, sounds heroic.
Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary
With the boys Vinod, Manju and Forest guard.
Overall the visit to this place is worth and if you are planning to go there, you will get to see all the animals! What else you want? Brahmagiri is the perfect choice for a place that lets you experience the phenomenal freshness of the Sahyadris.


15 comments:

  1. Nice mava!! Nicely written..well done

    ReplyDelete
  2. Prakash Mudhol8 June 2017 at 10:59

    Impressive work Naveen��

    ReplyDelete
  3. Super ra naveen... feels good.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Good Blog!! Amazing pictures....Nice spot for Forest trek...Guys awesome!!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Great blog amazing work...
    I need few details can I you leave me a wats up ping..
    9019891435

    ReplyDelete
  6. Awesome Naveen!!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hello Naveen
    Really a good write up I'm planning to visit in 20th of December'19 can you please give me the details of organizer or help me in getting accomodation

    ReplyDelete
  8. Nice one.We are planning to visit last week of dec 2019. Need some details. Can you please provide your phone nunber on ark7856@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete

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