Stunning doesn’t begin to describe the vast sub-continent,
home to the one of the world’s largest rain-forest, the impressive Western Ghats
(Called as Sahyadris in some parts), with ever green, semi ever green forests and
some truly breathtaking landscapes. If you are a truly nature lover, I
would say there is no place better than Western Ghats for the adventures of a
lifetime. Always known for the greenery and the landscapes, Western Ghats is a land where
one can find popular waterfalls as well as mountainous treks.
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Towards endless beauty!! |
Being born and brought up in drought prone area Anantapur
of Rayalaseema, rain was always been heaven for me and became part of my life.
I never forgot those moments when dense dark clouds forming and casing the
entire blue sky followed by heavy downpour. Now a days if I hear the sound of
rain and when I see clouds coming towards me I run not to escape from rain, but
for rain not to escape from me. I believe over the years I have developed this mindset.
I am not sure whether I could explain better but I am sure my passion connected
to Mother Nature. Though it may sound poetic but that is factual. Sadly it
doesn’t rain much at my hometown and it is opposite over Western Ghats. Monsoon
is the season I love in Western Ghats and I always try to make as many trips as
possible to this rain-forest during wet season. I can’t forgot those instants relishing
rain walking in the lap of Western Ghats.
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Green Beds till the far you can see. |
Many times I have been to Madikeri, I even travel around the
Coorg. But heard about Brahmagiri peak when Ajay did trail here last year in
winter. Brahmagiri looked pretty exciting and was longing to go to this place
ever since, so decided to trek the mount Brahmagiri as I confirmed that it’s
rainy weather on the forecast with my colleagues Ajay, Nagesh, Pramod, Hemanth,
Thilak, Guru, Yuvraj, Prakash, Manish and last but not least my cousin Deekshith
. Fortunately it was raining with on and off showers throughout the trail.
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Dark clouds all over. |
The Brahmagiri Wildlife Nature preserve is located in Kodagu region
of Karnataka state
in the Western Ghats. Brahmagiri national park originates its name from the
highest point, the Brahmagiri top, which is at 1607m. The region predominantly of
dense forests, high grasslands, colorful birds and a more chances to see
wildlife makes this a wonderful trek inside the Brahmagiri National Park. Ajay
suggested that we go for a trek, a monsoon trek to Brahmagiri organized by a
freelancer Raj Well-known travel guide who works closely with KMA and YHAI. So
we confirmed our interest with Raj and we went to get a sore foot while being
drenched in the cold winds and drizzle of the south west monsoons.
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ππ |
Our guide Raj managed to get permission to camp in the Narimale
forest inspection bungalow (IB) from the forest department, Srimangala range.
Late in the evening we started off from our office Koramangala, in a tempo
traveler hired by the Raj.
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First pic I have captured! Tree House π |
We reached Nagarahole National Park entrance by 4’o clock from
where actually the forest expanse start off. Nagarahole one of the most popular
wildlife destinations of India, Named after the lively River Nagarahole in
Karnataka, Nagarahole National Park is an enchanting getaway for the nature
worshippers. Popularly known as Rajiv Gandhi National Park, this reserve forest
is located in two famous districts of Karnataka, namely, Kodagu and Mysore. A
significant part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, this national park
constitutes one of the largest protected areas in South India along with
Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, Bandipur, and Mudumalai National Parks (2183sq km altogether).
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Indian Gaur (Bison) herd en route !! |
There is a gate and policemen who won't allow you till it is
6 am in the morning and after 6 pm in the evening no vehicle will be allowed
inside the core area. Everyone had a nice nap about two hours, few vehicles
including ours paused near the gate till the clock indicated 6 am. It was
turning out to be a lovely sunrise. Everything looked peaceful in dim light
early in the morning. Soon after, the gate was open and we were instructed not
to stop anywhere till we reach the main gate towards Kutta and forest guest
houses.
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Lonely Girl πππ
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I and Pramod were setting up our DSLR and other were prepared
to take snaps with their handset. A group of gaurs just sideways of the road
surprised us. It was a stealing moment, the way the gaurs were posing, that
sight was attractive. On the way we could spot many deer of all sorts
like Chital, Spotted deer etc. Adding to our excitement there was an elephant
which we could see close to road. It was really a fantastic drive just the way
we imagined it to be.
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Deekshith's Special!!π |
Took not more than an hour and we were at Iruppu falls, the
route to the peak is through this famous waterfalls in south Kodagu. The place
was perfect for us as it is surrounded with greenery in all sides. On
freshening up Raj managed to arrange delicious breakfast for all of made by the
local family, Pulav and Raitha. The group had more fresher’s than regulars so guide
give us tips to do’s and what not to do before the start of the trek in the
core region of Brahmagiri reserve as we are entering to the big mammals land
and leeches paradise. He has given guidelines for next day’s schedule too and we
were ready for the exciting task ahead.
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Just before starting ! |
Along with us two local boys Vinod,
Manju and forest guard joined to assist us in the trail. Our entry into the
forest began just 500 meters from Iruppu falls parking area. We were cautioned
that the 24 km to and from trek is almost major elephant region, we were lucky
to spot one ferocious tusker (Will discuss in detail about this later in the
story).
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@Iruppu Falls |
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Foot bridge en route to falls !! |
We were greeted by the chirping of birds, leeches and there
was also the sound of flowing Lakshmana theertha stream. We rested for brief
periods and continued our journey by removing the leeches and reached a bridge
constructed over Lakshmana Theertha River, spent some time here in stream
waters. After traversing for nearly one and half hours we were out of the cozy
canopy of the shola forest and into the open grassland.
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Cute pie near the stream taking rest on the rock ππ @Malabar Pit Viper |
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Phallus Indusiatus(A mushroom variety) found in the Brahmagiri! |
Everyone wearing thin,
barely covering ankle running socks, not exactly a great decision when we are
in leeches’ paradise. In a group of 11 people, as soon as boys started seeing
and feeling the leeches Pramod, Yuvi and Hemanth were stained with blood and they
had more than one slimy little bloodsuckers attached to them. That was the
moment all the beginners Manish, Guru, Thilak and specifically Nagesh afraid
off this little buggers.
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Near Lakshmana Teertha Stream. |
A few facts you might not know about leeches:
- They attach themselves to you in two places, so each leech
actually creates two "bites".
- They're difficult to remove by hand, and
- When you try and remove them by hand, you might pull it in
half where the other half stays attached to your body.
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'Blood'y three Idiotsπ |
Somehow they succeeded to clean from leeches but ankles
continued to bleed and bleed and bleed and bleed. I didn’t care of about those,
by now we could see a clear view of Brahmagiri range and could also cite the
mist covered adjoining peaks during the trail. Though the trek was quite
strenuous for most of the people in group, the 360 degree scenic beauty
enveloping us was the best gift for all the hard work.
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Down the hills. |
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Enjoying the moment!! |
If the greenery far away
peaks gave us an opportunity to feel nature in her pristine form the golden
grass covered nearby peaks was a feast to the eyes. No camera can capture the
exquisite beauty of nature in all her glory. It has to be captured only in the
lens of our eyes though we did try to catch them in our cameras. We took short
break and moved on to reach Narimale IB at around 11. 30 am, having trekked for
two and half hours.
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@Team |
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In a row !!π |
Narimale guest house was 6 kms from Iruppu falls entrance,
the small semi-haunted theme bungalow has 4 solar lamps and a turbine is
running by using a stream water which never dries out. There are some vessels
and few chairs and whole guest house covered with asbestos sheets on top. It
doesn’t have water supply, one has to go near by stream and carry the water
every time needed.
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Wooden bridge near GH. |
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Entrance to the guest house. |
Here we decided to freshen up and began to have our
lunch. It was packed chapatti and delicious chutney powder with curd and
vegetable salad. Almost every one feeling charged up after delicious lunch and
decent rest for some time. By 2’o clock we were ready to start our journey
towards the Brahmagiri peak, Raj given us some important guidelines not to make
noise till reach the peak as this area is Tiger corridor, Bison resort,
Elephants habitat, many other wild animals host and treasure trove of evergreen
species of trees and grass lands.
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Lunch time !! |
We have start as early as in order to reach the peak, since
rain has lessened a bit. We were leaving back all our backpacks at the IB since
we had planned to come back to the guest house. I was imagining that 6 km trail
path from GH to peak to be absolutely grass lands, hence I wrongly anticipated won’t
be bothered with leeches. The plains had become more or less wetlands with
monsoon rains. With heavy rains yellowish grasslands had a makeover to lively
green in matter of days, which gave us spectacular views.
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During the walk few
of us caught sight of 2 sambar deer grazing at a distance. From the time when the
start at guest house we were able to see huge masses of Elephant, their huge
steps in the marsh soil.
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Pug marks πΈπΈ |
Guide Yathiraj showed us some pug marks of big
cats, thought of tiger must have crossed this path a while back. We have taken
hardly 1 + hour to complete the 5.5 km over grassland and left over 500 mts took
another half an hour to climb. The path to the peak as steep as 70 to 75
degrees and you could see two muddy paths leading to the top with grass and
some tress around.
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Mount Brahmagiri ππ |
It was vertical, slippery with small steppingstones. After
inclining 20 mins of fought session we reached the peak of Brahmagiri. But our
happiness didn’t last for long, reason being the thick climate surrounding the
mountain with heavy wind and mist. This resulted us lack of the 360 degree
scenic view of the Brahmagiri ranges. However that did not stop new bees from
having the excitement of completing the trek, Thanks to the incessant rains,
heavy breeze and relentless mist covered. The climb down from the peak was bit
challenging, with almost sliding and tumbling down at least once, Pramod had uncertainly :D.
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Random click by Manish !! |
We had an overwhelming experience while returning back to
the GH, somewhere in the middle Yathiraj found that a ferocious male Elephant racing
us. At far distance we were able to see Elephant coming to attack towards us. All
of us got frightened and started running to guest house. Yathiraj shared his experience
why male tuskers are unsafe in this wildlife sanctuary.
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Sambar deers at some distance. |
Females tend to live in family groups, which can consist of
one female with her calves or several related females with offspring. The
groups are led by an individual known as the matriarch, often the oldest cow. Elephants
have a fission–fusion society in which multiple family groups come together to
socialize. Males leave their family groups when they reach puberty, and may
live alone or with other males. Adult bulls mostly interact with family groups
when looking for a mate and enter a state of increased testosterone and
aggression known as musth, which helps them gain dominance and reproductive
success. Males are usually solitary, but occasionally form groups of two or more
individuals(This is why lonely tuskers try to attack people and behave crazily with frustration they had on their family).
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Selfie time. |
Soon after on our way back we saw again 2 Sambar deer grazing at a
distance. Hence I didn’t take any precautions and this was probably the biggest
blunder of the day. In the end I had a blood bath with getting 20-30 odd bites.
Even in the grasslands the leeches were blooming because of the total nonexistence
of sunlight. We have to be very cautious about Bloodsuckers, they are all
over the place! They penetrated our shoes, sucked our blood. Do not forget
to carry salt, calcium carbonate, knife or anything to remove them when they
get stuck.
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Inside. |
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Out Side. |
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Back Side!! |
Finally we reached the guest house with emotions, we sat
there, talked a little. But slowly the magic of the jungle at the night time
began to have its hold on us. The fear was gone. We experienced something that
we, little people from the city, never knew existed. The jungle is never
silent. It has its own voices, its own music that you can only hear when you
truly try.
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Fauna of Western Ghats. |
We found a thick branched log of a tree lying in front of the guest
house. We went to it and started breaking it and put fire camp Manju helped us
to arrange it, waiting for the sun to set we realized that this was going to be
a wonderful experience.
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Tea time @camp fire. |
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Good dinner was prepared by the Manju and Vinod, we all had
nicely. All went to sleep in no time as we trekked almost 20 kms throughout and
not had proper sleep last night during our journey. It was very clod and
luckily there was no mosquitoes.
The next morning we got up and completed morning chores. Then
raj said he is taking us to Nature walk around, earlier we decide to go
Pakshipatalam a natural caves in the morning. Then I got to know that Brahmagiri
Wildlife Sanctuary not given permission due to some dispute and therefore
permission for Karnataka side to Munikal Caves (in Kerala) is never
entertained. We came back from morning walk and had delicious breakfast
prepared cooked on the firewood and started descending down to the base point
near Iruppu falls. I found a green wine snake on our way back, Ajay and Deekshith
had some fun playing with it. It took around two hours to reach the falls and
took bath under the falls.
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Bidding bye to Semi-haunted guest house.
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Crazy kids at the moment π
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I have heard this was the costliest trek in South India, one
has to pay Narimale guest house rent whopping 5k for one night stay. But I
understood the logic, more the cost, less would be the trekkers inflow and only
serious explorers will be interested. Also we were the only team attempting to
scale the peak on this weekend and since the monsoons hit. I believe we are the
first team to successfully conquer Brahmagiri peak in Monsoon 2017, sounds
heroic.
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With the boys Vinod, Manju and Forest guard. |
Overall the visit to this place is worth and if you are
planning to go there, you will get to see all the animals! What else you want?
Brahmagiri is the perfect choice for a place that lets you experience the
phenomenal freshness of the Sahyadris.